It is amazing the difference that one person can make sometimes. My experience of Varanasi has taken on so many twists and turns now with Hapiz and he has shown me an entirely different city. He is a kind man and helps others constantly during our little city excursions and he has taken me to parts of the city I would have never gone alone, much less known they existed. Because of him, Varanasi has emerged for me, through the filth, the grime, the pollution and the incredible amount of people packed into a very small space.
Today, the highlights that I have pictures of below were Pilgrim's Bookstore which had an amazing selection of Sanskrit and Buddhist texts that I was able to find some real gems at next to nothing. For me, that's geeking pretty hard, and it was great.
We also went into the Moghul Muslim neighborhood, which was yet another interminable maze of side streets that Hapiz went bobbing ahead of me as I was tripping over myself (and cows, kids, goats, scooters, chickens...) to keep up with him.
Here, the entire process of the world-famous Varanasi silk brocade work is done, from boiling the silk to punching out unique design templates to the weaving and dyeing itself. The whole quarter was echoing with the clanging of the looms, sounding very much like a chorus of old-fashioned printing presses, which is what I thought the noise was when we first came upon them. And, of course, the showroom, which I then got to see the "private" collection as these prints are not exported, only sold in Varanasi.
And, later, to end the day, I went back with Hapiz to the evening Pooja celebration on the banks of the Ganges. This time from the front and not the boat's viewpoint. Each evening, every day of the year, they say good night to the Ganges with an elaborate display of fire, incense, and of course, noise. Lots of noise. Bells, horns, conches, tablas, chanting, and just general background noise create a surreal ceremony to the great River Goddess Ganga transforming the smelly muddy waters into an incense-filled delight of sights, sounds, and smells. Again, India responds.
Enjoy.
Today, the highlights that I have pictures of below were Pilgrim's Bookstore which had an amazing selection of Sanskrit and Buddhist texts that I was able to find some real gems at next to nothing. For me, that's geeking pretty hard, and it was great.
We also went into the Moghul Muslim neighborhood, which was yet another interminable maze of side streets that Hapiz went bobbing ahead of me as I was tripping over myself (and cows, kids, goats, scooters, chickens...) to keep up with him.
Here, the entire process of the world-famous Varanasi silk brocade work is done, from boiling the silk to punching out unique design templates to the weaving and dyeing itself. The whole quarter was echoing with the clanging of the looms, sounding very much like a chorus of old-fashioned printing presses, which is what I thought the noise was when we first came upon them. And, of course, the showroom, which I then got to see the "private" collection as these prints are not exported, only sold in Varanasi.
And, later, to end the day, I went back with Hapiz to the evening Pooja celebration on the banks of the Ganges. This time from the front and not the boat's viewpoint. Each evening, every day of the year, they say good night to the Ganges with an elaborate display of fire, incense, and of course, noise. Lots of noise. Bells, horns, conches, tablas, chanting, and just general background noise create a surreal ceremony to the great River Goddess Ganga transforming the smelly muddy waters into an incense-filled delight of sights, sounds, and smells. Again, India responds.
Enjoy.
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